Posted on May 17th, 2025

Day 2 in Tokyo – Tradition, Art, and a Glimpse of the Future

📍May 15

Our second day in Tokyo took us on a journey through tradition and tranquility, to the future with cutting-edge creativity, before ending with panoramic views and city lights. We started in the peaceful suburb of Shibamata, enjoyed museum exhibits centered around Sumida Hokusai, then ended the day with sweeping views from Roppongi and a taste (not a great one) of fast food back in Shinjuku.

A Morning in Shibamata: Classic Cinema & Japanese Heritage

Our day began with a visit to the Tora-San Museum and Yamada Yoji Museum, located in the Shibamata district, an area which had the air of the English countryside. These museums celebrate the Japanese film character Tora-san, and director Yamada Yoji’s acclaimed cinematic work. Even as a first-time visitor unfamiliar with the films, I found the exhibits nostalgic and atmospheric.

From there, we walked a short distance to Yamamoto-Tei, a traditional Japanese house with a beautifully maintained Japanese garden. The garden itself, with its koi pond, manicured shrubs, and peaceful water features, is a perfect place to sit in stillness and admire the artistry of Japanese landscape design.

After enjoying the garden, we explored the interior of the house, moving through tatami-matted rooms overlooking the garden. The architecture blends Taisho-era Japanese and Western styles, and the rooms contained antiques and period furnishings. A highlight was sitting cross-legged on the floor and enjoying a traditional cup of green tea, cookies, and sweet beans, simply served the customary way.

• 🚆 Getting there: JR + Keisei Line from Shinjuku to Keisei-Takasago (~¥400), then a 10-minute walk

• 💴 Admission (Yamamoto-Tei): ¥100

• 🕘 Opens at 9:00 AM

Afternoon with Hokusai: The Master of the Great Wave

Next, after making a quick stop at 7-Eleven for ice cream and drinks, and getting a tasty fried rice, dumpling, and ramen lunch, in nearby Taito, we traveled to the Sumida Hokusai Museum, a strikingly modern structure dedicated to Katsushika Hokusai, the iconic ukiyo-e artist known for The Great Wave off Kanagawa. Inside, we explored permanent and temporary exhibitions showcasing his sketches, woodblock prints, and innovative techniques.

Two things caught our attention on the subway to the museum:

• One train car displayed a sign designating it for women only during weekday mornings.

• Another car was delightfully papered with Thomas the Tank Engine and Friends, a whimsical sight that reminded me of my son’s childhood and made me smile.

• 💴 Admission (Sumida Hokusai Museum): ¥400

• 🕓 Open until 6:00 PM

• 📍 Located in Sumida Ward, Tokyo

High Above Tokyo: Strange Futures at Mori Art Museum

As evening approached, we visited Roppongi Hills for the Mori Art Museum and Tokyo City View Observation Deck. The exhibitions at the museum were contemporary, and many were futuristic, with a heavy focus on AI-generated art. One exhibit, titled Afrofuturism, stood out in theme but didn’t make much sense in execution. Some installations were so abstract they left us simply puzzled—but the entire experience was thought-provoking (and, in my daughter’s opinion, creepy).

Another highlight of the day was going to the observation deck just in time for sunset. Watching the golden light shift over Tokyo Tower and the city sprawl was impressive.

• 💴 Admission (Mori Art Museum + Observatory): ¥2,000

• 🚇 Getting there: From Sumida to Roppongi via Toei Oedo Line

Evening in Shinjuku: Screens and Reflections

We caught the train back to the hotel, and I was struck by how everyone on the train was absorbed in their phones, all heads down.

Dinner that evening was at McDonald’s in Shinjuku—an admittedly underwhelming choice. Altogether, it was a day very well spent.